Kodály körönd [map]
Pest Centre, VI, Kodály körönd (M1), 0 min

Rating: 7.2/10 (Overall)

Halfway between Oktogon and Hősök tere, Kodály körönd (literally Kodály Circus, as in Picadilly) should be the pride of Andrássy. The road widens to form a lush, err... circus, with bushes, benches and sycamore trees (including the oldest in Budapest, according to the waiter at Huszár.) But it’s the four grandiose buildings, similar but by no means identical, that impress the most. It’s odd then that they are crumbling. Looking up, the penthouse rooms are spectacular but, by the number of smashed windows, patently unused.

With such inertia from the developers – one of the buildings, dubbed "Andrássy Palace Gardens”, has been earmarked for investors – there are certain perks. Cheap restaurants in a great location, being the most obvious. Kodály körönd has two.

Restaurant Huszár Pizzeria (Rating: 6.9/10) sits on the körönd itself, beneath one of the four behemoths. It’s a pleasure to sit out on the terrace, perusing the crumbling grandeur, comfortably far back from the road. The menu is intriguing and cheap, although in reality, simply adequate for the price. Both the ‘almás csirkemel’ (chicken breast with apple sauce) and cigánypecsenye (Gypsy-style roast pork) were rather greasy; it’s perhaps safer to stick to the pizza. Service though is friendly and everything’s reasonably priced.

The alternative is Cserepes kisvendéglő (Rating: 7.3/10), which is a few metres down Felső erdősor utca. Not really refined anough to be called a restaurant, it tends to get impossibly busy at lunchtime. But, if you’re very lucky, or eating off-peak, you may find room enough. There’s plenty of rantott-anything here i.e. things fried in breadcrumbs, and if you’re not hungry before you reach the corner, you will be once you smell the food. Just about all mains are under 1000Ft and tasty; not gourmet by any means, but a straightforward and very Hungarian addition to a walk down Andrássy.

So, all-in-all, a great place to come back to in ten years, when you can expect to find the buildings looking pristine but the lunch a lot less affordable. (Or, this being Hungary, the buildings looking the same, and the lunch a lot less affordable.)

Either walk up Andrássy from Oktogon, down from Hősök tere, or take the yellow M1 metro directly to Kodály körönd.
Kodaly, koday, korond, korund, kurund, huszar, hussar, husar.
Andy Sz.



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